I wrote earlier about making my own chalkpaint and I also wanted to
share what happened with the professional version
.... drumroll ... Annie Sloan. I am sharing this from
my boutique blog and site
as I
have received some interest from both blog audiences.
I am kind of a day late and a dollar short, as the expression goes.
Once I randomly started googling about ways to simplify my painting life
given my abundance of projects and scarcity of time ... I discovered
that my problem (endless preparation time for redoing furniture) had
been solved ages ago. le sigh.
because of the myriad of plaudits for the Annie Sloan brand, I decided
to try it for my professional test.
And now I will join the angelic chorus in shouting hallelujahs to
painting high heaven, amazing amazing where have you been all my
painting life?
First thing I noticed when opening the
can is the luxurious whipped texture. Now this is a can that was
shipped to me from Northern France. so it did not come to me fresh off
the paint can shaker thing at the paint store (technical term there) so
this texture is obviously inherent to the product. It is smooth like
frosting, but a little less thick. I chose the Old White because it is
presented as devoid of any color pigments (yellow or pink) and thus a
welcoming base to any color.
I used the paint on a
client project I had overwintered. A large, 2 piece buffet from the
60/70s, pine, covered in a hideous orangey varnish, so well known on
pine of this timeframe. I felt this would make a handsome test for the
Annie Sloan chalk paint claims of no sanding, no priming, just paint.
Normally this sort of finish would reauire either complete sanding or
1-2 Coats of primer to avoid bleed-through to the new finish. especially
a light colored finish.
My client had already chosen a
color, somewhere between a seafoam and sage green ... the Annie Sloan
duck egg made a close match.
So I wanted to test not only the ease of using the product, how it
matched up to its claims ... but also the economy of it as I have seen
some complaints about pricing.
For this project I ordered 1 liter of Old White and 1 test jar (100ml)
of the duck egg paints, and one tin of the clear wax.
I wanted to lighten up the color to get to my client's desire. I mixed
approx. 1/3 of the white liter with 3/4 of the sample pot and several
tablespoons of water to create the supply of paint for the exterior of
the piece. I anticipated I might need to do 2 coats.
For
the interior, I blended about 1/2 cup of the white with a yellow
acrylic I already had. Also wanting to see how well the Annie Sloan
product could integrate with other brands.
I covered the entire buffet with one coat that went on smooth as silk,
no streaks. I kept the consistency pretty thick like a pancake batter,
not very watered down. I did a second coat solely on the top surface of
the buffet as this area would experience the most wear.
I
did the interior more as a wash because the old wood / veneer was
fragile and slightly warped in places and I did not want to get it too
wet. I had already contracted with my client not to do any repairs and I
did not want to create any more work for myself!
After the paint had dried, I was ready to wax.
With
chalk paint, you apply wax vs. a clear topcoat of varnish. This goes
against everything I have done for years and was the more awkward step
of the new process. The weather was super cold here and the wax was not
soft (as when it arrived in my warm kitchen) but really firm and
difficult to get on the brush. I warmed it up a bit to room temperature
and took another go.
This will take some adapting on my part, but I can already see where I
can improve my approach ... and a little extra research has given me
some good tips. Like heating the wax to form more of a glaze you can
lightly brush on and then go back to buff. In warmer weather I can see
where this would not be a problem, but in my unheated atéliér in the
frezing winter of countryside France it is a different story. You apply
wax BEFORE sanding which also goes against all instincts for a clean
final finish but trust me it worked! only sand what you want to distress
or change the look of, you do not have to sand the whole piece to
achieve a clean final finish. once you have done your sanding, you can
buff the piece to the desired glow or shine. If it is a little streaky
or you want it glossier you can add some wax and polish on. The wax
adheres to the paint and through buffing creates a finish that will
continue to harden and age to a nice patina.
One thing
that kind of stumped me was the interior of cabinetry. I usually paint
and topcoat the interiors and drawere for a more finished and clean
outcome. I don't think it is feasible to wax and buff the interior of
cabinetry. No worries there, you can topcoat chalkpaint as an
alternative to wax. Which I did.
I am impressed by the
ease of working with this product as well as how easily it adhered to
the original finish on the furniture! As far as the cost goes ... here
it was 22€ for the liter and 9€ for the sample pot. I estimate I used
about 20€ of product on this very large two part piece. I did not sand
and I did not pay for primer. I used my existing brushes and tools. At
a minimum the expense was about the same. I still have plenty of the
white paint and wax to use on another project. Which I already have
planned! I also purchased a sample pot of their Antibes Green which I
was immediately attracted to. I think I can stretch this for 2 projects
I have ... wait and see!
I know there is a plethora of
other techniques to discover with this paint such as layering more than
one color and revealing with water vs sanding, using the dark wax to
achieve an aged patina and some of the other specialized finish products
like crackling ... but for now I give an enthusiastic 2 thumbs up!