Trip Highlight - North Beach in San Francisco

I've decided to do some trip highlights featuring some of the things we enjoyed during our month in the U.S.

North Beach is a lovely section of San Francisco. Not only is it considered the 'little Italy' of the city, it also was the home of the Beatnik generation. It is located midway between Chinatown and Fisherman's Wharf. It is one of those areas that feel like a small community neighborhood smack in the center of a big city. It was named for a beach from the 1800s that eventually became landfill.

Italian immigration slowed after the early 1800s, but the neighborhood still retains its Italian zest.

Lots of fun SF landmarks reside in North Beach ... the 'crookedest' street (Lombard), cable cars, some of the most steep SF hill streets (on Telegraph & Russian Hill), wonderful coffee shops, restaurants and book stores ... not to mention the nightlife of Broadway's landmark strip clubs and hawkers (remember Carol Doda?!)...and the city's oldest parish church, St. Francis of Assisi (established during the gold rush).

We got off at the first BART stop (Embarcadero) and walked along the piers lining the bay towards Fisherman's Wharf, soaking in the lovely bay views and the breathtaking angles of the bay bridge from this vantage point. We hung a left at Bay and made our way using Coit Tower as our landmark guide. We were headed there to visit ... to see the Diego Rivera and other murals, take the rickety elevator to the top and relish the circular views of the city from the top of the tower. It was built in 1933 to help 'beautify' the city.

From there, stroll back towards Columbus Avenue and her amazing city views including the Transamerica Pyramid building. Columbus is lined with shops, restaurants and tiny garden pockets which make the walk very enjoyable.

Lunch was at L'Osteria ... a tiny yet delicious restaurant with a decidedly European feel. It is so small, you wait at the half door to be seated by the servier. If you can, score a window table like us, more private and you can people watch to your heart's content.

L'Osteria del Forno has more than its share of rave reviews for deliciously authentic Italian cuisine. I would add my endorsement to the list.

They are known for making many of their dishes in the oven. An octopus carpaccio as a starter (small squid sliced paper thin and grilled ... drizzled with a fruity olive oil)...their famous pork braised in milk and served with roasted rosemary potatoes (it appears to be accompanied with some sort of polenta or such, but no that is just a reflection of the milk which forms some sort of a custardy-type sauce) and a plate of light as air gnocchi was shared as the main course. Helpful guidance in selecting a very nice bottle of their red ... desserts were affogatto (fresh vanilla bean ice cream served with a shot of espress and dollop of real whipped cream) and a berry something or other (not my gig, can you tell?!). Their focaccia is warm and delicious (we had to wait for our refill to finish baking, it is just that fresh).

We were well tended and never rushed ... we arrived to a nearly empty restaurant that was packed 30 minutes later and still were allowed to loiter to our heart's content.

More strolling was required after the gastronomic indulgences ... just continue on to the nearby architect/designer blocks to window shop as you make your way back to the Embarcadero.

The city seemed nearly deserted! Walking through the financial district and reflecting on my years there, the only conclusion I could reach is that the financial crisis and resulting layoffs/unemployment have removed scores of folks from the city blocks? anyone who has another theory, please share.

In any event, this made a lovely half-day itinerary with San Francisco...maybe best for those who have just arrived and don't want too push their jet lag too much...but don't want to sit around waiting to feel normal again!

there's no place like home, there's no place like home...

hello friends and foes, I'm home ...

after a tumultuous return (a bag lost, a bag difficultly ((is that a word?)) retrieved) ... a sortie missed, adding 2 extra hours on the Peripherique ... we arrived home Tuesday evening ... spent, exhausted, not an ounce remaining...but thoroughly delighted and satisfied with our journey ...

My house was carefully attended to ... my dogs in bonny spirits and delighted to greet me ... provisions had been purchased to welcome me home ... and can I tell you that a garden can revert to ye olde 'secret garden' in just 4 weeks? ... grass was hip high and all sorts of mischief underway ... not to mention the fact that I completely missed the lilacs and the snowball blooms which, I am told, were 'magnifique'...

After re-sorting our valises to ensure we had our purchases properly assigned for the journey home, my travelling companion departed for home and anticipated stresses. I, on the other hand, revelled in my return ... my sweet if decrepit little house, my darling boys and the lovely late spring weather. I decided to forego unpacking and instead attack the garden for the first pass (I'm sure at least 3 rounds will be required). I fired up the mower, raised her to her highest level and began my assault. about 2/3 of the way through, it began to rain! but I soldiered on and got it all cut down.

I am not exaggerating with the hip high statement. My poor garden was overrun and overgrown. Tomorrow I plan to weed my flower beds a bit and maybe do another pass. There were thunderstorms last night and today, smack in the middle of the day, an onsault of aggressive rain poured down for about 3 minutes and then halted. The era of summer storms has commenced.

My neighbor and friend, Nicole, passed to share aperos. She had watched the dogs and was checking in to be sure all was well. We made plans to share lunch today, I would 'knock' at noon.

to be honest, I don't remember if I ate anything before bed. But after going to bed at about 10:30, I slept till 2:40 a.m. and then realized I was famished. I went down and slapped together some bread and smoked ham. no, smoked bacon? not sure, but it was kind of like prosciutto. I then was wide awake and watched online tv till about 6am.

The next thing I remember was being awakened by Bruno's barking. I clumsily descended and realized it was Nicole...checking on me because it was after 12!!!

This afternoon has been a bit of a confused blur...I went to the village and visited the mairie re: renewing my carte de sejour and discussing my boutique's terrasse ... I visited the veterinaire and the bike shop ... I visited the supermarket and the florist ...

no real prioritization or reflection occurred with any of this...my head is topsy-turvy with the time change.

I did a 30 minute walk with Nicole .... J'ai bien mangé ... I just drank about a third of a bottle of rosé (!) and I'm hoping all of this combines for a good night's sleep and a more coherent tomorrow.

I've lots to share about trip highlights ... having just completed 4 weeks with a European companion, I have tips and favorites to share for those who might be interested in the west coast of America.

oh and maybe some pictures.

did I mention what an absolutely fantastic time was had??? wow. can't think of anything to change, except maybe more time ... for more memories!

ciao!

suddenly it dawns on her ...

I'm leaving for the states in one week. ONE WEEK!!! crap, where did the time go? there are lists to be made, arrangements to be finalized, blah blah blah

I'll be heading to Portland, Oregon first for the first few days ... a reunion brunch with friends on Sunday and then drive to California on Monday. Spend the next couple of weeks staying with my daughter and friends (alternately, I suspect!) while we work together in the shop.

Thursday, December 11th we host our annual holiday reception and BLOW-OUT SALE (30% off this year, biggest ever!) from 5:00 - 9:00 p.m. Anyone reading that is in the SF Bay Area, please come on by. Details will be here on our store blog, Je Suis Mignonne. There will drinks and food and djmusic ... and of course, MOI! haha-haha!

Once Christmas arrives, we close the shop for a week or so. We will head back on up to Oregon to the coastal cabin (see my sidebar!) and have a little family celebration of our own.

Currently I'm set to return January 16th but may come back sooner ... I am not bringing the dogs and am a little anxious about the situation I was able to arrange for them. So I might return one week early.

While I'm gone, work shall theoretically (ha, no I'm sure it will) progress on my kitchen and home. It will be interesting to see, upon my return, what the new year will bring.

My french professeur, Laurence, has kindly set me up with a mini-program for while I'm away. I have a book to read and chapters to summarize in french and some other exercises which will be exchanged via email. I'm also armed with a list of french conversation groups I hope to drop in on for practice. I'm nervous about backsliding.

Of course I want to see family and friends, but the truth is I think I'd rather stay. sigh. Nearly every time I speak with someone (friends) in the US, I hang up depressed. Everyone is gloomy and upset and the sky is falling and what's next ... I'm happy in my french bubble.

Anyone out there in the states that will be in the Portland or SF Bay Areas 12/3 - 1/15 and wants to meet up ... give me a comment. And when I return, I definitely want to meet up with some of you frenchified bloggers and bloggesses. tout de suite!